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Dugout
Wells
Dugout Wells is a short circular drive just east of Panther Junction on
the main park road. We wanted to catch the sunrise, but not too far from
Panther Junction. We needed to be at Panther Junction when they opened
to get in line for a backcountry permit
for the South Rim hike the following day. The Dugout Wells area is noted
as an attraction for wildlife since there is water available there most
of the year. We hoped for both a nice sunrise and to see what was stirring
around the well. The sunrise was really nice, but there weren't any clouds
around to mix up the sky. It was nice to be able to see the sun rise over
the Sierra del Carmen to the east and then shine on the Chisos Mountains
to the west. This vantage point gave us two options on the sunrise. A
strategy that we employed several times throughout the week. We saw several
types of birds including wood peckers, road runners, and a pair of young
jack rabbits that I chased around a sticker bush trying to get a photo.
It was evident that we were too early for the cactus blooms. Although,
the buds would tease us for the next seven days. Our only blooms came
from the yuccas and blue bonnets.
Panther
Junction
Every trip to Big Bend has to include a stop to Panther Junction, which
is the park headquarters. They have a great 3-D model of the park, which
allows you to truly get a big picture of the 800,000+ acres available
to explore. However, we were mainly there to secure a backcountry permit
for the hike to the South Rim of the Chisos Mountains. Permits are given
out no earlier than 24 hours in advance. When we arrived there were approximately
20 people in line to get permits. At this time of year all the traditional
campgrounds fill up quickly; therefore, many of the people in line were
simply getting permits for primitive camping, which is available throughout
the park and accessible by most vehicles. There was a bit of confusion
on the "pick a number" sign since the numbers were all out of
order, but everyone was civil and things worked out fine. I was able to
have my pick at the campsites along the South Rim and the park ranger
was more than happy to answer our questions. The better sites on the Southeast
Rim were not available due to the mating of the Peregrine Falcon (more
on those guys later) so I settled for SW3 along the Southwest Rim. The
park ranger recommended it because it had a nice view from the campsite
and was not settled back in the woods like the other sites along the rim.
I later discovered the best possible campsite, which will be
covered on Day Three.
Ernst
Tinaja (Hike:1 mile round trip)
A rough five mile road trip (high vehicle clearance recommended) into
the desert takes you to a short one mile round trip hike to the beautiful
and unusual Ernst Tinaja. Along
the drive you will encounter a grave of a long ago Mexican traveler /
rancher? The grave is adorned with attractive rocks and various coins
that have been placed in a form of homage or out of respect for those
that once struggled to make a living in this harsh climate. Once you past
the grave you are only a mile or so from the trail head. Tinaja is Spanish
for earthen jar or jar of earth. The tinaja is crafted
in the bottom of a shallow canyon. I have been to this site on all four
trips to Big Bend and each time the tinaja has been filled with water.
The are a lot of photographic possibilities here. The walls around the
tinaja are lined with layers of sediment, which have created an array
of swirls and patterns in the stone.You can take detail shots, refections
of the side canyons in the tinajas, or overall pictures of the canyon.
Lost
Mine Trail (Hike: 5 miles round trip)
This is one of the most beautiful and accessible trails in the park. Actually,
I had always passed over this trail after planning to hike either Emory
Peak or the South Rim, but after reading a few trip reports we knew that
we needed to include this hike on this trip. If you are in a hurry or
are hampered by the distance you can simply set your goal to the one mile
overlook and you'll have a spectacular view (although not as good as the
end of the trail) of the East Rim and Casa Grande.
This one mile overlook could also be a great location for a sunrise photograph.
We arrived at the trail head around 3:15 p.m. and purchased the self guided
tour brochure for $0.50. The brochure mainly identified plant life along
the way and didn't contain a trail map. My suggestion - save your coins.
The hike from the one mile overlook to the end of the trail was rather
steep with several areas of switchbacks and eventually turning to open
trail at the top. The end of the trail presents a grand view of the eastern
Chisos Mountains and a panoramic view over to Sierra del Carmen. We reached
the end of the trail around 5:00 p.m. after stopping for photographs,
water, and a snack at the one mile overlook. The lighting in the late
afternoon was great for photographing the eastern end of the park; although,
an actual sunset is not visible from this location. We enjoyed the view
and explored various compositions and then began our trek back down. We
were hoping on a sunset possibility at the one mile overlook and then
hike down by flash light, but the sun was blocked by Casa Grande so we
continued down the trail. We arrived at the trail head just in time to
jog down to the bend in the road to catch the sunset through the Window.
By the time we got back to the inn it was well after 8 p.m. -
time to get cleaned up and have dinner. We decided to expand out from
the limited menu of the restaurant next to the inn. We ended
up going to an eclectic eatery for called La Kiva. It is located between
Study Butte and Terlinqua. The interesting thing about this place is that
you walk down in to it like a cave. La Kiva must be Spanish for cave?
The decor is dino-like complete with fosils and bones in the rock walls.
Another interestig thing is that you order your drinks at the bar (water
for me, Dr. Pepper for Joey) and your food at the table. The food and
prices were good; although, we both agreed that we prefer to see
the food that we are eating (it's a little too dark in the kiva). We headed
back to the motel and reviewed the next days events. A full day indeed.
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